Mercedes
Gearbox Controller
5
speed + Lockup
Model
722.6
Contact : of@ofgear.dk
This
is the standard kit,
Including cabling and
plug for gearbox, gear lever, TPS
And a wire with
resistors for connecting to paddle shifters
New kit width OLED display (Works as gear
indicator and normal display)
Old kit 4 line text display
Optionel
Gearindicator
1”
EGP / Boost 3 bar
Boost 3 bar
The pressure sensors are
professional type bought from www.Mouser.com, and has a gel over the die to
protect from harsh environments, and can measure 3 bar boost/EGP over
environmental pressure.
Here
it is connected to gear lever and
TPS (throtle position
sensor)
Boost solenoid / EGP sensor / boost
sensor. Only needed if used as boost
controller
Getting started / installing
the controller
First,
connect all plugs.
Gearbox:
Connect the large, round, multi-pin plug directly to the gearbox
Gear lever:
Connect the rectangular gear level plug to the gear lever.
TPS:
Connect the TPS sensor plug to the TPS sensor.
Boost
sensor: Connect the boost sensor to the intake manifold,
(Boost sensor is better for Turbo cars,
especially if it is late spooling turbos)
Then Connect Power
Black to ground makes sure you have a good
connection.
Red to a 12V supply that becomes live when the
ignition is switched on. Use an 8 Amp fuse on this wire.
Now before starting the engine, you have to
calibrate the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
This
process teaches the controller about the signal it can expect to receive from
the TPS when the throttle pedal is both fully depressed and when it is not
depressed at all.
Put the “W/S” switch into the W position
(if you have the Mercedes Gear Lever)[A1] ,
1. Turn on the ignition so that
the controller is powered up, but do NOT start the engine.
2. Press the joystick down until
“SETUP” is shown on the display
3. Press the joystick right, to
enter this menu
4. Now that you are in the SETUP menu, Press the joystick down
until "Setup TPS " is
displayed.
5. Press Joystick right, to
enter this menu.
6. Now with 0% TPS (throttle
pedal not depressed) press the joystick UP
7. Then press the throttle pedal
fully (100% TPS) and press the joystick DOWN
8. Put
the “W/S” switch into the S position, and repeat steps 1-8. (Only
if you have a W/S switch, otherwise you are done)
Gear Lever
Put the “W/S” switch into the W position (if you have the Mercedes
Gear Lever).
1. Turn on the ignition so that
the controller is powered up, but do NOT start the engine.
2. Press the joystick down until
“SETUP” is shown on the display.
3. Press the joystick right, to
enter this menu
4. Now you are in the SETUP menu, press the joystick down
until "Lever Setup" is
displayed.
6. Press Joystick Right, to
enter this menu
7. If you have the 10 pin plug
in the Gear Lever PRND4321. Press Joystick UP or Down to get “0”
If you have no plug for
Gear Lever set to “1” (and ignore step 9, unles you have mounted a switch for
switch W/S)
8. Press Joystick Right to save
9. Put
the “W/S” switch into the S position, and repeat steps 1-8. (Only
if you have a W/S switch, otherwise you are done)
Load
For turbocharged diesel engines
with a boost sensor, the torque of the engine is calculated as a combination of
TPS and boost.
This means if a diesel engine
with a peak torque of 750Nm has 250 Nm with no boost, and 100% TPS, the engine
is at around 33% torque. When the turbo kicks in and boost pressure is at 2
bars, we then get the remaining 66% torque and peak output of 750 Nm.
For a Gasoline car it is
different here we only use TPS, 100% TPS is 100% torque.
“Setup Parameter” -> “Load - TPS Boost”
Diesel cars
where boost sensor is mounted set it to 2.5
Gasoline
cars 3L (6 cyl) set it to 1.5
Gasoline
cars 5L (V8) or more set it to 1
When the
number is changed it is saved automatically, no need to press right to save
this setting.
“Setup Parameter” -> “Boost Part Load”
Diesel cars
where boost sensor is mounted set it to 33
Gasoline
cars 6 cyl set it to 1
Gasoline
cars V8 or more set it to 1
Here you do
have to press right to save after the number is changed to the desired value
Shift Firmness.
When you first drive the car, be take careful notice of how hard the
shifts are.
If all shifts are too soft or too hard it can be adjusted with the
following setting.
“Shift Firmness” -> "General Firmness"
If shifts are too soft, reduce the number to get harder shifts.
If shifts are too hard, increase the number to get softer shifts.
Please be aware that if shifts
are too soft, it can cause a problem where a shift does not complete and it
stays in the gear it was in.
A shift that is a little too
hard is always better than a shift that is too soft.
External Speed
The best
situation is to have the controller connected to an EXTERNAL SPEED SENSOR.
But as many
of the old cars do not have one, the controller can work with the speed sensors
internal to the gearbox.
"Use int speed/Rpm" (to decide if you are going to use an External speed sensor or not)
In software
versions > 157 there are two separate menus. One for “Speed EXT/INT” and another for “RPM EXT/INT”
PUT the “W/S” switch in the W position
1. Turn on the ignition, but do
NOT start engine.
2. Press the joystick down until
“SETUP” is shown on the display.
3. Press the joystick right, to
enter this menu
4. Now that you are in the SETUP menu, Press the joystick down
until "Use int speed/Rpm" is
displayed.
5. Press the joystick right, to
enter this menu
6. Press the joystick up or down
to select “0, 1 or 2” as per the
list below.
0 External Speed and RPM sensors are connected
1 External RPM sensor is connected and internal speed sensor
is to be used
2 No external sensors are connected and both Km/h and Engine
RPM is read from internal gearbox sensors.
7. Press the joystick right to
save
8. PUT
the W/S switch in the S position,
and repeat points 1-7.
An external
speed sensor is absolutely preferable, as there is a limitation on the internal
speed calculation, since the speed cannot be read while shifting.
After connecting the External speed sensor, run the car slowly (10 km/h)
and see what the speed says, in “LiveData” if it is not correct it should be
adjusted in the setup menu "Adjust
Ext Speed % "
If you want to get the most out of this
controller
You should
get an overhauled gearbox, if not you run the risk of getting the engine RPM
jumping up during shifts, I have seen this myself, and heard it from others but i have only seen it happen
between 3rd and 4th gears. I have not seen this problem on any other shifts.
If you want
to shift gear under 100% load I am just preparing you that you can see a jump
in RPM between 3rd and 4th gears.
I have it even
in my E55AMG box and live with it fine.
I just do
not want to be responsible for your gearbox not shifting 100% correctly ;-)
And as much as I hate to say it, here it is…
This
product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation
and use of
this system
in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The
developer /
seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or
injury
caused
either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The
system is
intended
for off road use only. Be advised that the system will produce changes in the
drivability
of your vehicle.
Q & A
Q: Can I find any 722.6 on the yard and it will
work?
A: As far as I have seen, any 722.6 is OK. The
usual problem is that it jumps a little up in RPM between 3-4
Q: What gearbox is the best for high power
project. 600 Nm or more?
A: W5A580 AMG box is one of the strongest.
Q: What Year is the best?
A: As new as possible they have only got
better and better.
Q: if I find a W5A580 AMG box, is it then just
mount and go?
A: Get it as new and low mileage as possible
Q: What is the best to do if i want the best of
the best?
A: Have the gearbox overhauled and have
everything gone through; seals in
valve body and clutches and have their clearance tightened up beyond Mercedes
specs. The best thing to do is to set them up to have about as tight a
clearance as possible but not too tight so that they burn from drag.
Q: But can I use an old worn out box if i just
want 5th gear and lockup not for racing?
A: Everybody’s requirements are different, but
if you let’s say run it in manual mode and let off the throttle at every shift,
then yes, it is possible, also in automatic mode if it is cruising not racing.
Q: My box was working perfectly in the donor car
and now it is slipping between 3rd and 4th gear.
A: You
have to remember that the transmission had torque management, meaning the donar
car was limiting power during shift. Because of this, you will never see the
state the gearbox really is in, as the clutches get worn out Mercedes adjusts
for that by letting the shift take longer, meaning removing momentum from the
engine for a longer time.
Q: Can a
Normal 722.6 from a standaard E300 turbodiesel hold a momentum of 600 Nm?
A: Yes it
can hold that but shifting under max power is a different case, from my
experience the 1->2 is fine and also the 2->3 and 4->5 but we are on
the limit here.
Q: The
W5A580 does not fit the OM606 what do I do?
A: Get the
Converter and bellhousing from 722.6 which was originally mounted on OM606
(Diesel Engine 24V)
Q: I have an
OM606 and I dont want to mess with the bellhousing what should I look for?
A: Find a
gearbox from a E320 CDI as new as possible, they are built to high momentum. (This information could
be wrong as I have heard it does not fit, I will try to find out) (The 320CDI
box DOES NOT FIT OM606 unless the bell housing is switched.)
What I am trying to say is that you should get the gearbox adjusted and
looked after before installing if you want a system that is working perfectly.
If you can live width a little slipping when shifting under load, then
try to install what you have but that is totally up to you.
main menu
Live Data
Here you get TPS position “Throttle Position Sensor 0 - 100%”
Engine RPM, if taken from inside the gearbox, value is only valid when
driving
Km/h taken from inside gearbox or external sensor.
AG : Actual gear used
VG : Wanted gear
OK : if 0 the box controller is waiting, if 1 then it is ok to shift
gear, only 1 gear shift / 2 sec
L : Gear Lever position P, R, N, D, 4, 3, 2, 1
W : W / S Winter / Sport
Then all the valves, used for problem solving under development, but
nice to watch.
T : Temperature inside the box, only valid when in gear
RPM internal part 1 / internal part 2
SETUP
When you change a value you have to press the joystick right to use it,
If you want it to be saved permanently, you have to save it to default under
the menu called “Userdata/Factory” / “Default W”, otherwise your changes will
be lost when the controller is turned off.
Change value by moving the joystick UP / Down.
Press the joystick right to save it.
Parameters to change in
“SETUP”
"Converter Lockup "
The
speed in km/h at which to lock up the torque converter in 5th gear.
"Converter Unlock "
The
speed in km/h at which to unlock the torque converter in 5th gear.It must be
lower than the lockup setting above.
0 = No, (only lockup in 5th gear)
-1 = Like 1 but do not unlock if TPS goes below 10% (only lockup i 5
gear)
1 = Lockup also in 2 - 4 gear, if you put gear lever in position 4 you will
have lockup also in 4 gear, this is useful when pulling heavy uphill.
2= always lockup in 2-5 gear also if the lever is in “D”
From Software 92 and UP
3= Like 2 but also no unlock with no throttle.
4= Like 3 but also shifts gear with locked converter, converter only
unlocks if below 30 km/h This is only useful at Racetrack :-)
5 = Special only unlock if speed is below 10 Km/h and lock if in “2” and
speed > 10, this is a special setting for an Electrical vehicle (only from ver_140)
6= Lockup over a switch 12V in on (D0 kickdown 12V in), but then you can
NOT use kickdown on this input, no soft lockup in this mode as it is for Racing
/ Drifting (only
from ver_143)
7= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it
unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does
"NOT" unlock it TPS < 10%
(only from ver_170)
8= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it
unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does unlock it
TPS < 10% (only
from ver_170)
"Setup TPS "
To set up TPS to get exactly 0% when pedal is released and 100% when
fully depressed, even if you only supply maybe 4 volts at full throttle. This
is very simple you press the throttle to 100% and press the down key, let go of
the throttle and press the UP key, thats it, TPS is calibrated, look at first page for more on this issue
"LOAD - TPS Boost "
if set to “2”
then it means that the Throttle depressed 100% gives 50% Load, Boost gives the
rest.
"Boost part
load "
If set to lets say 33
{
EXPLAIN
Load = TPS / 2 + Boost * 33
EKS “50 / 2 + 1 * 33 = 25 + 33 = 68% load
}
"Idle RPM "
Only used in some cases, if components is mounted. and only if there is
external RPM-signal as the calculated RPM signal will always be 0 at stationary
car. it has to be set higher then 500 RPM, to get an output.
From ver 123
If set to exatly “510”
something special will happen it will adjust idle to 800 when Gearoil temp is
below 45 deg, and to 650 when hotter.
"Max Boost mbar. " Moved to
Boost menu
Only used in some cases, if
components is mounted.
“Volt reg +/- "
Here
you can adjust the Voltmeter if not showing correct value.
“Temp reg +/- "
Here
you can adjust the temperature +/- 20 deg
this is only to be used if you know it is displayed wrongly.
"Kickdown at %TPS "
if set to 97 then you will have kick-down if TPS > 97 if set to 101
you never get kick-down.
If you set it to 105 Kickdown would be triggered from external 12V
source.
"max speed fail "
There is a safety function not allowing km/h to fall down to fast,
should be set to max 20
"Slow upshift "
The higher the number the
slower upshift, by instant release of throttle, it suppresses unwanted
upshifts, when cruising slow around in the city.
"PWM N->D P->R " Called
Garage Shift by Mercedes
IF you have hard shift when shift in to D and R the the number must be
higher, too high it will not engage.
Default is 25, but you can make the P/N -> R and P/N -> D softer by higher number try 35, but if it
does not engages you have to lower the value, the first 2 times you engage R or
D this value is not used, to make shure we have engagement first time.
(only in SW 135 or
higher) If it will not engage in D or R set to 15
"PWM 3->4 N-D/P->R (only if SW >
ver_136)
The Valve for the 3-4 shift is triggered width a PWM signal when
shifting from N->D or P->R this is default 50.
This is to give a smoother engage.
But if you have any problem that it sometimes not engage, set it to “0”
"Adjust ext RPM"
Default is 36, if RPM show too high lower this
number, only use if you use external engine RPM
In Software > 157 there is two seperet menu
One for
“Speed
EXT/INT”
Use internal speed from gearbox, or external
speed.
“RPM
EXT/INT”
Use internal RPM from gearbox, or external RPM.
The
internal RPM will always show 0 if car is stationary, and engine is running as
the converter is slipping, this is normal.
"Use int speed/Rpm"
Use calculated Km/h from the
internal parts in the gearbox if set to
0 Then Contrroller need both RPM and Speed from external
source.
1 then you only need external RPM, Speed is calculated from
inside the Gearbox
2 then both Km/h and Engine RPM is calculated from inside the GearBox
5 (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth
gear)
6 (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth gear)
+ External RPM
After change save settings and
power off and on again, then changes is made
"Temp Line -20deg "
Adjust the line pressure at
cold
"Temp Line 120deg "
Adjust the line pressure at
Hot
"Temp Pres -20deg "
Adjust the shift pressure at
cold
"Temp Pres 120deg "
Adjust the shift pressure at
hot
"delay 3-4 "
Only use if you have problem with slip in 3-4, if you have, start with 5
and 1 up at the time, until it goes away, do not go over 15 then you have a bad
box.
(only in SW 120 or higher)
If you set it to
exact “-1” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below 45% that is great
as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift smooth.
(only in SW > 150
or higher)
If you set it to
“-1 to -9” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below -1 = 10% and -9 =
90% that is great as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift
smooth.
"Reset Km Counter " (only in SW 128 or higher)
Press
Right This will reset to Total Km
to “0” Km
Press Up
this will add 1000 Km at each
press
Press
Down This
will subtract 100 Km, that mean you can adjust to a precision of 100 km.
"Lockup Soft / Hard"
1 = hard 30 = soft
"Use Paddle shift "
Use paddles on analog 9,
0 = disable
1 = Read the value for testing
2 = Read the value and activates the horn output
3 = Paddle shift activated
4 = Paddle shift activated, and if in main menu, and paddle is pressed
it shift to manual instant, and goes back to auto if you drive very slow in
high gear, (only in
SW 95 or higher)
"EXT Speedadjust "
Used to adjust External speed in % can be used if you change your Rim
Size.
"INT Speedadjust "
Used to adjust internal speed in % can be used if you change your Rim
Size.
"Time bet shift " = time between shifts
Used to change the minimum
time between shift, if set to 1000 mS then you can shift from 1 to 2 then you
have to wait 1 sec to shift 2 to 3,
This time is also used in
automatic mode but here is added 500 mS this means that when the time is set to
1500 mS “Standard ” it is 2000 mS in automatic.
"0 point boost "
Moved to Boost menu
where the boost sensor has 0
bar on the 0 - 1024 scale if it is a 3 bar sensor it would propably hav a range
from -1,5 bar to 3,5 bar 0 - 5 v and the
value here should propably be set to 300.it can be tested on the 2. live data
page, where you press right on the live data, you can press right to get the
second page. you should adjust until you just see a little boost when engine
not running.
"Max boost at 5v " Moved to Boost
menu
This is the max boost your
sensor can handle. A 3 bar boost sensor has 3 bar at 4,5 volt, 3,5 bar at 5
volt, this value has to be set to 350 “mBar at 5 volt”
“Show on Display at Startup”
in live data, you can change
what to display on line 3
0 = Normal, just main menu
1 = Boost menu, Live Data (This is if you just
use the controller as Boost Controller. and want to have live data all the
time)
2 = Start up in Manual mode, (RACEMODE or if you just want Manual all the time.)
3 = Live Data
“VNT Boost/EGP” ( Moved to Boost menu)
Boost controller is used
1, 2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4
different algorithm to adjust boost
5 is for Normal Turbo
6 is for Normal Turbo more
aggressive limit
7 is for Normal Turbo even
more aggressive limit
8,9,.....................
20 extreme aggressive limit.
“Lever setup”
0 = MB standard lever
1 = No lever, N, P and R &
D can be detected but not 4-3-2-1
2 = Special For a special
gearbox having a 120 OHM output when in “R” (gives reverseligth output on
AUX-3)
“Limit Engine Power under
shift” (Not in this setup
menu, but i think you would try to find it here)
Under “GeneralBoost” goto Use PWM - AUX-4,
The following happens for different value
2, you
get instant 200 mS 100% PWM
3, you
get instant 300 mS 100% PWM
12 you
get 100 mS delayed 200 mS 100%
PWM (1 is
100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)
25 you
get 200 mS delayed 500 mS 100%
PWM (2 is
200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)
By the
way Engine limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)
If you want to Limit Power on
Mercedes Gasolin car, where before a 722.3 was
From Switch S65 on Gearbox width
1K Ohm resistor Pin 1 and Pin 2 width a relay
Manual Shift
Use the joystick up/down to change gear, 100% manual / or paddle
shifters. / or switches connected to a rally type shifter
It is still only possible to change gear one time every 2 sec
(Adjustable in setup menu.)
It is only possible to downshift the same as a kickdown would, Safety
that you not turn over the engine.
Shift Speeds different gears
Here you can see all UP / DOWN shift at actual TPS,
You can test it by stopping the engine, go to this screen, and press the
throttle, to see when it would change at that TPS.
Shift Speeds
Here you can change the value of all shifts
0% throttle
1-2 called Min 1-2, Upshift
100% throttle 1-2
called max 1-2 Upshift
0% throttle
1-2 called Min 2-1 Downshift
100% throttle 1-2
called max 2-1 Downshift
Kickdown ok 2>>1
If the Speed is lower then this value it is ok to shift down to 1 gear
at kickdown
RPM Kickdown 1-2
At this RPM it will make upshift from 1>>2
Kickdown ok RPM
Downshift width Kickdown will only happen if RPM is below this value
Shift Firmness
LineLowLoad 1>>2 Default value = 20 (Higher
value = Softer shift at low load)
PresLowLoad 1>>2 Default value = 30 (Higher
value = Softer shift at low load)
LineHiLoad 1>>2 Default value = -6 (Higher
value = Softer shift at High load)
PresHiLoad 1>>2 Default value = 12 (Higher
value = Softer shift at High load)
LineLowLoad 2>>1 Default value = 20
PresLowLoad 2>>1 Default value = 30
LineHiLoad 2>>1 Default value = -6
PresHiLoad 2>>1 Default value = 12
If you find the shift from 1>>2 to hard at very
low load.
Then try this
LineLowLoad 1>>2 LineLowLoad = 22
PresLowLoad 1>>2 PresLowLoad = 32
Remember to press the >> key to save the values.
And before shutting the car down remember to save it permanently under
“Userdata/Factory (” version 2 saves it automatacally.)
And do the same for high load,
if you find the shift to hard or too soft.
When this is done and you find
that the shift are too soft or too hard at lets say 50% load, you need to
change those
When you have set up nice soft
shift and good hard shift. then you can fine tune with number below
"Load
at 25% load" if you have to soft
or too hard shift at 25% load if to hard lower the number
"Load
at 50% load" same but at 50%
"Load
at 75% load" same but at 75%
The whole new Shift Firmness
MENU (from
version 117) Need to be testet some more
In this menu you can adjust all shiftfirmness parameters manuelly
In the gereral Firmness
You can adjust correction for temperature, and adjust general
Linepressure
From ver 139
“LineAdjust” All changed to “Firmness All L=H”
L=H means Lower number = harder shift
This now adjust both
LinePressure and ShiftPresssure, Lower
number = harder shift, higher number =
softer shifts.
If you want to adjust the hardness for different load, go in here.
If you want the shift to bee a bit harder at 30% load then just adjust,
higher number is harder shift, but only at 30% load
before you leave this menu it is possible to save changes, it
automatically saves in “W” or “S” depending on the switch position.
The last menu in Shift Firmness is the Min / Max at any gear, Just leave
it, its fine as it is :-)
Rate Last Shift MENU (from version 117)
This is the Rate Shift Menu
When the gearbox have shifted you see the last shift, and at what load,
the shift was done.
On this oicture below it has shiftet from 2->1 at load 1% = no load
Here i pressed the joystick down, to tell the controller to make it a
little more smooth next time.
And the controller reply width “Notet to hard” and it will make it more
smooth next time.
There is 10 different load points, on every shift. and they are
different on up and down also.
Gear Lever Connection 10
PIN MB plug to 14 Controller plug
24 Pin Gearbox Plug
Pinout from Controller
Use 8 Amp fuse on the 12 Volt
External Parts needed to
have a complete working system
Mercedes TPS Sensor from
W210 year 1997 - 2002
If you get the TPS sensor from a W210 car it has a
plug with 6 wires.
You need the plug and 10 cm of cable.
If you take the plug out you can read on the plug pin
1,2,3,4,5,6
the pin 1 needs to be connected to 5V,
the pin 6 needs to be connected to 0V,
the pin 5 needs to be connected to TPS input,
The last 3 wires from the Sensor is not connected.
MB TPS Sensor plug Mountet on an OM606
in a G Class, Mechanically pump
TPS Sensor MB
When TPS Sensor is mounted, you go into “setup Parameters” then “Setup Tps”
At 0%
TPS NO Throttle press the Up key
on joystick for 1 sec
Now press the
Throttle full to 100%
press DOWN
key for 1 sec
MERCEDES W210 E300 Turbo Diesel Boost Sensor If you need max 1,65 bar =
25 PSI
Then the originally MB boost sensor from a W210 E300
Turbodiesel can be used as it has a standard 0-5 volt output
I have only tested this exact type below
“Boost Control”
-> “General Boost” -> "0 point boost" set it to 305 if this Mercedes sensor is used
“Boost Control”
-> “General Boost” -> "Max boost at 5v" set it to 170 if this Mercedes sensor is used
Gear Lever and plug (it
has to be the one with a “1” see red square on picture)
And the plug is a 10 pin, and have 8 wire out, thats
the Gear Lever we need
If you are in the Marked for a GearLever, be aware
that the GB (RHD), ones is also mirrord, compared to the LHD ones, an other
thing is that the one from W210 is longer and higher, then the W202, and R129
it is the short that fits the W124 and older G class,
W202 / R129 fits W124 W210
model Longer and higher then the one on the Left, Do NOT fit W124
Part number 2022670637
10 Pin plug to on the Wiring harness
Tiptronic Yes and No
I
can NOT talk to the Tiptronic shifter, if you want to use that, it is fine but
you then have no switch for W/S but that can be any switch.
And
I can only tell from the gearbox if you are in P/N od RD but that is fine but
the function width hold in 4, 3 2, 1, and so on are not working.
If
you want to use +/- You have to add some micro switch to switch to ground when
you press + or -
and
then connect to PADDLE input, thats it.
Reverse Ligth (Those 2 pin it shorted when i R
for Reverse Ligth)
Boost
Controller, Parts to use
If you have a Vacuum actuated turbo where you want to
use the built in boost Controller you should have one of these.
This is a vacuum valve meaning if it has 100% PWM,
there are max vacuum = Wastegate closed, if 0% PWM no vacuum = Wastegate open.
The part is used in Many Mercedes cars from 1997 to
2000 both for boost control and EGR,
It is connected to
the two pins marked in red, it does not matter how they are connected as it is
a solonoid,
Here we see the
Boost screen We have set the Boost to 0,6 bar and the boost is 0,63 thats why
you see the PWM out is less then 100% = WasteGate is opening
update of firmware
Install Driver
(Wery importent connect PC to controller when
stationary, as the controller restart when connected)
You need to connect
the box to you PC,
When connectet go
to Device Manager, here the Arduino Mega 2560 (and Port number) should show up.
But only if it
can find the rigth driver.
If it cant find
the rigth driver, you can download this package
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing
it
is quite big, but you can’t just download the driver alone.
You
will find a directory called “Drivers”
Update Firmware
Program
to upload new Firmware
Download
this software
http://russemotto.com/xloader/XLoader.zip
It will look like
this
Hex file send to you, is
choosen.
Device Choose
(Mega(ATMEGA2560)
Comport (To find you comport look in Device
Manager )
Press Upload and wait until it says uploaded it takes
around 60 second
Starter Lockout (from version 113)
“Boost
Control” -> “General Boost” -> “USE PWM - AUX-2”
If
set to “2” then the AUX-2 works as a Starter Lockout, it pulls the output to ground
when in P or N
This
can drive a relay, witch has 12 Volt on the other side of the coil. (from
version 113)
I
know it does not make sence this function is hidden in the Boost menu, but as
we steal a AUX output from there, thats why.
The
starter lockout will work no matter if you don't have the Mercedes Gear Lever
og you running without a Gear Lever.
You
can not use AUX-2 to other things at the same time.
Boost Controller part of the 722.6 controller.
The
Boost controller can be used in different ways.
If you
want to use Boost Controller
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”
The value means the following
0 Boost Controller in PWM
mode allow, you to specify PWM depending on boost, see later in this document)
1,
2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4 different algorithm to adjust boost
5
is for Normal Turbo
6
is for Normal Turbo more aggressive
limit
7 is for Normal Turbo even
more aggressive limit
8,9,.....................
20 extreme aggressive limit
At the bottom we have the
Boost Control menu
In there is a General Boost,
and all the many data points you can change
Lets
say you have an normal Turbo, just want to open wastegate when boost hits 1 bar
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “TPS -> Boost”
Press
-> on the joystick.
Here
below you have 11 data points for any throttle position, 0.10.20.30....100%
Right
key gives you next point, Left gives you previous.
Up
key higher value, Down lower value
Check
out this YouTybe Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULEGavGRavs
To
see what you have programmed you watch the live data in the live data menu.
Here
you see that TPS is 41% and the Limit is set to be max 0.6 bar boost = 9 PSI.
at that throttle position. But as you see boost are a little higher, that's why
the PWM out is not 100% it has started to open the Wastegate on the turbo.
If you want More Control over
what happens, you can specify exactly what PWM signal is sent to the Boost
valve.
PWM
is Puls width Modulation. if it is 10% that means that yeo have 10% power to
the solonoid valve, and wastegate is almost fully open
If
PWM is set to 100% the solonoid will make full vacumm and wastegate will close
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP” set value to “0”
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “Use PWM-1 Boost” set to “1”
Now
the menu has Changed and ready to do PWM.
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “EGP-Boost ->
% PWM” set what you want here
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “Boost ->
% PWM” set what you want here
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “RPM ->
% PWM” set what you want here
Goto
“Boost Control” -> “Speed ->
% PWM” set what you want here
The
lovest PWM value will be taken from the above and send to Valve
On
Picture below you see that the boost limits PWM to 30 %
Holset CAN-BUS Control fromSW ver_144
And HW ver 4 the new Smaller SMD board
The Holset HE351VE is a
popular VNT turbo, that is why i now support to run this turbo over the CANBUS
output.
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“General boost” -> “CANBUS” set it to
“HOLSET 1” or “HOLSET 2” if set to HOLSET 2 it moves the vanes the other
direction.
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”
set it to “0”
Now Restart the controller 2
times.
The Controller now control
the Turbo depending on the settings in
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“EGP-Boost -> % PWM” set what
you want here
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“Boost -> % PWM” set
what you want here
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“RPM -> % PWM” set
what you want here
Goto “Boost Control” ->
“Speed -> % PWM” set
what you want here
%PWM is % position of the
vnt vanes in this mode.
Connect the Holset, there is 4 wire coming out the
Holset controller
RED / Green = 12V
Green / yellow = 0V GND
Yellow = CAN H
Green = CAN L
Picture of my test setup
Extra AUX output
for other stuff
There are 3 more PWM AUX output,
AUX-2
“General Boost” -> “USE AUX-2”
If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “1” Then it works this way
The AUX-2 PWM out. takes input from the TPS, EGP, RPM
and gives out the lowest of the 3.
From ver 159 (Start Fan for Gear oil Cooler)
If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” Then it works this way
The AUX-2 PWM out. Takes input from Gear oil temp and
Pulse AUX-2 to ground at higher then 90° and releases at 85°
if “USE AUX-2” is set to “2” then it is used as starter lockout. (search for starter lockout)
If “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” then the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the Gearlever, then it
can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10 km/h (It gives a ground signla, you have to supply
12V to the other side of solenoid)
AUX-3
If “USE AUX-3” is set to “1”
This takes in Analog input 1 in and Boost, RPM, and
gives out the lowest PWM of the 3 out
.
This output is also used for reversing Ligth
if Lever is set to “2” and can then not be used for AUX-3
If “USE AUX-3” is set to “3” Then
the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the
Gearlever, then it can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10
km/h (It gives a ground signla, you have
to supply 12V to the other side of solonoid)
If “USE AUX-3” is set to “4” Then it works this way
The AUX-3 PWM out. takes input from Gear oil temp and
pulse AUX-3 to ground at higher than 90° and releases at 85°
AUX-4,
Same as previous just another analog input. (if set to 1 it is used depending on
A-2,Boost,RPM)
This output can also be used to get a signal out to
limit power of engine.
Under “General Boost” go to “Use PWM - AUX-4”,
The following happens for different value
1, it
is used depending on A-2,Boost,RPM as AUX, not Pover limit function.
2, you
get instant 200 mS 100% PWM
3, you
get instant 300 mS 100% PWM
12 you
get 100 mS delayed 200 mS 100%
PWM (1 is 100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)
25 you
get 200 mS delayed 500 mS 100%
PWM (2 is 200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)
By the way Engine
limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)
AUX-4 Explanation
Analog in 0-5 volt
out = PWM signal 50% means valve on half the time.
0 |
0,5 |
1 |
1,5 |
2 |
2,5 |
3 |
3,5 |
4 |
4,5 |
5 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
90 |
75 |
30 |
Boost in PWM out
0 |
0,15 |
0.3 |
0,45 |
0,6 |
0,75 |
0,9 |
1,05 |
1,2 |
1,35 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
60 |
30 |
0 |
0 |
RPM in PWM out
0 |
500 |
1000 |
1500 |
2000 |
2500 |
3000 |
3500 |
4000 |
4500 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
80 |
60 |
40 |
If we have
A-2 = 4,5 Volt <=> 75%,
Boost = 0,9 bar <=> 60%, This is the lowes and 60% PWM is sent to the
Valve.
RPM = 3500 <=> 80%,
Just a little more work then 2 X VNT in Compound
This is the Label on the V3 Controller
Failure Search
**Start Fail
RPM-1** or **Start Fail RPM-2**
There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all
shifts if speed is not right,
This can be triggered if put ignition on and start the
car instant, Specially if you also gives it a little gas
If you put ignition on and start after 2 sec you will
never see it.
**N at speed**
There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all
shifts if put in N at
speed
Please drive below 5 km/h before put in N
GearOil
It is very important that the gear Oil level is
correct in the 722.6 but if you don't
have a dipstick here is how you can make you own. as the 722.6 newer has a
dipstick from new.
Mercedes Part number : 140589152100
http://autoimport.dk/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953
http://mbspecialist.com/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953&search-button.x=0&search-button.y=0
Here is a link to discussion of Oil Level
SpeedoMeter
Great Link to keep speedo working on old cars from
here
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/308791-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-15.html
FROM the link
But I figured out how to move the
internal VR trigger wheel to the driveshaft and keep the tailcone with the
manual speedo on the 722.4. Here's a diagram of the strategy. (The full thread
on this topic, including images of the proof-of-concept test is here - Mechanical
to Electronic Speedometer Conversion
)
Different information
Momentum for the 722.6 (W5A580)- 578lb/ft = 800 Nm
i
think the strongest automatic 722.6 is the 722.649 this is connected
to
the 65 amg and handle 1000nm
722.608
300 td diesel
722.623
some v8 petrols
722.649
e65 amg,s
Gear ratios
Mercedes-Benz Transmissions |
|||||||
Gear |
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
R1 |
R2 |
5G-TRONIC
(W5A330/Small NAG)[2] |
3.932 |
2.408 |
1.486 |
1.00 |
0.83 |
-3.10 |
-1.90 |
5G-TRONIC (W5A580/Large NAG)[3] |
3.59 |
2.19 |
1.41 |
1.00 |
0.83 |
-3.16 |
-1.93 |
Where to find
the gearbox
·
1996–1999 Mercedes-Benz
W140
·
2000-2005 Mercedes-Benz
W220
·
2006–Present Mercedes-Benz W221 (V12 Models only)
·
1997-2002 Mercedes-Benz
W210
·
2002-2004 Mercedes-Benz
W211
·
1997-2000 Mercedes-Benz
W202
·
2000-2004 Mercedes-Benz
W203
·
1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz
W163
·
1997-2004 Mercedes-Benz
W168
·
2004–Present Mercedes-Benz
W169
·
2005–Present Mercedes-Benz
B-Class
·
1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz
R170
·
1990-2001 Mercedes-Benz
R129
·
2001–Present Mercedes-Benz R230 (V12 Model and Earlier, up to
2005)
·
1998-2002 Mercedes-Benz
W208
·
2003-2005 Mercedes-Benz
W209
·
2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz C215 (V12 Models only)
·
2007–Present Mercedes-Benz C216 (V12 Models only)
·
1996–Present Mercedes-Benz W463 (AMG Models only)
·
2005-2009 Mercedes-Benz
SLR
·
2002–Present Maybach
57 and 62
·
1998-2002 Jaguar X308 (Supercharged models only)
·
1998-2002 Jaguar XK (X100) (Supercharged models only)
·
2004–Present Ssangyong
Rexton
·
2006–Present Ssangyong
Kyron
·
2005–Present Ssangyong
Rodius
·
2005-2008 Dodge Magnum- All HEMI applications, all AWD
applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent
·
2005–Present Chrysler 300- All HEMI applications, all AWD
applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent All pentastar V6
applications
·
2006–Present Dodge Charger- All HEMI applications, all AWD
applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent,All pentastar V6
applications
·
2008–Present Dodge Challenger- All HEMI applications, All
pentastar V6 applications
·
2007-2011 Dodge
Nitro- 4.0L V6 Applications
·
2006-2010 Jeep Commander- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L CRD V6
applications
·
2005–Present Jeep Grand Cherokee- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L Diesel
Applications, SRT8 Applications, all pentastar V6 applications
·
2011–Present Dodge
Durango, 3.6L V6
·
2011–Present Jeep
Wrangler- 2.8L Diesel
·
2012–Present Jeep
Wrangler 3.6L V6
As
much as I hate to say it, here it is…
This product comes
with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of
this system in any
vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The
developer / seller of
this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury
caused either
directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The
system is
intended for off road
use only.
PC Program (This is Beta, not 100% tested)
DO NOT CONNECT AND DISCONNECT USB CABLE WHILE Driving
Get the EXE file direct, and run
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQMnpsRm96d09HMGM/view?usp=sharing
Driver for
controller
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing
Conversion drawing
W124
Engine from OM603 to OM606
Gearbox from 722.3 to 722.6
The Propellershaft do not need to be changed or
modified, just make sure the Flange fit.
If you have mecanically Tacho you can find a
electronic one from W124 (420 or 500) make sure they are eletronic.
The Crossbare from any W210 can be used but 2 holes
has to be drilled.
Overload protection
on W124 gasoline cars, (NOT NEEDED BUT
POSSIBLE)
this controller can also send a signal to the Engine
controller
But i
have not yet tried it, all info i have found is below here
Please if
anyone know how the S65 switch is working, please tell me, what i think is that
it is just short the 2 wires but not sure. ?
If it works as i think the S65 simply short 2 wires. ?
if it is like that then mount a relay to short, and drive the relay, width the
output from controller.
[A1] Is
it correct to say that if you don’t have the Mercedes gear lever, you can
perform steps 1-8 and ignore step 9?
[A2]This
section is very confusing to me. Can you explain the default behaviour? Does
converter normally lockup if the lever is in positions 1,2,3,4?
Do the speed settings above
for lock and unlock only apply to 5th gear?
It seems to me that if you use
setting 1 and you are in manual mode and you drive until you are in 4th
gear, then take your foot off the throttle, stop and leave the gearbox in 4th,
then the converter will still be locked when you stop because TPS<10%. Is
that correct?
Are these settings affected by
the gear lever position or do they behave the same in auto, manual or gear
lever selected gears?