Mercedes Gearbox Controller

5 speed + Lockup ­­

Model 722.6

Contact :  of@ofgear.dk

 


This is the standard kit,

Including cabling and plug for gearbox, gear lever, TPS

And a wire with resistors for connecting to paddle shifters

 

New kit width OLED display (Works as gear indicator and normal display)

 

Old kit 4 line text display



Optionel

Gearindicator 1”                               EGP / Boost 3 bar                Boost 3 bar

The pressure sensors are professional type bought from www.Mouser.com, and has a gel over the die to protect from harsh environments, and can measure 3 bar boost/EGP over environmental pressure.


Here it is connected to gear lever and

TPS (throtle position sensor)

Boost solenoid / EGP sensor / boost sensor.  Only needed if used as boost controller                           

 


Getting started / installing the controller

 

First, connect all plugs.

Gearbox: Connect the large, round, multi-pin plug directly to the gearbox

Gear lever: Connect the rectangular gear level plug to the gear lever.

TPS: Connect the TPS sensor plug to the TPS sensor.

Boost sensor: Connect the boost sensor to the intake manifold,

(Boost sensor is better for Turbo cars, especially if it is late spooling turbos)

 

Then Connect Power

Black to ground makes sure you have a good connection.

Red to a 12V supply that becomes live when the ignition is switched on. Use an 8 Amp fuse on this wire.

 

Now before starting the engine, you have to calibrate the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

This process teaches the controller about the signal it can expect to receive from the TPS when the throttle pedal is both fully depressed and when it is not depressed at all.

 

Put the “W/S” switch into the W position (if you have the Mercedes Gear Lever)[A1] ,

1.                   Turn on the ignition so that the controller is powered up, but do NOT start the engine.

2.                   Press the joystick down until “SETUP” is shown on the display

3.                   Press the joystick right, to enter this menu

4.                   Now that you are in the SETUP menu, Press the joystick down until "Setup TPS " is displayed.

5.                   Press Joystick right, to enter this menu.

6.                   Now with 0% TPS (throttle pedal not depressed) press the joystick UP

7.                   Then press the throttle pedal fully (100% TPS) and press the joystick DOWN

8.                   Put the “W/S” switch into the S position, and repeat steps 1-8. (Only if you have a W/S switch, otherwise you are done)

 

Gear Lever

Put the “W/S” switch into the W position (if you have the Mercedes Gear Lever).

1.                   Turn on the ignition so that the controller is powered up, but do NOT start the engine.

2.                   Press the joystick down until “SETUP” is shown on the display.

3.                   Press the joystick right, to enter this menu

4.                   Now you are in the SETUP menu, press the joystick down until "Lever Setup" is displayed.

6.                   Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

7.                   If you have the 10 pin plug in the Gear Lever PRND4321. Press Joystick UP or Down to get “0”

                      If you have no plug for Gear Lever set to “1” (and ignore step 9, unles you have mounted a switch for switch W/S)

8.                   Press Joystick Right to save

9.                   Put the “W/S” switch into the S position, and repeat steps 1-8. (Only if you have a W/S switch, otherwise you are done)

 

 

Load

For turbocharged diesel engines with a boost sensor, the torque of the engine is calculated as a combination of TPS and boost.

This means if a diesel engine with a peak torque of 750Nm has 250 Nm with no boost, and 100% TPS, the engine is at around 33% torque. When the turbo kicks in and boost pressure is at 2 bars, we then get the remaining 66% torque and peak output of 750 Nm.

For a Gasoline car it is different here we only use TPS, 100% TPS is 100% torque.

 

“Setup Parameter” -> “Load - TPS Boost” 

Diesel cars where boost sensor is mounted set it to 2.5

Gasoline cars 3L (6 cyl) set it to 1.5

Gasoline cars 5L (V8) or more set it to 1

When the number is changed it is saved automatically, no need to press right to save this setting.

 

“Setup Parameter” -> “Boost Part Load”

Diesel cars where boost sensor is mounted set it to 33

Gasoline cars 6 cyl set it to 1

Gasoline cars V8 or more set it to 1

Here you do have to press right to save after the number is changed to the desired value

 

Shift Firmness.

When you first drive the car, be take careful notice of how hard the shifts are.

If all shifts are too soft or too hard it can be adjusted with the following setting.

“Shift Firmness” -> "General Firmness"

If shifts are too soft, reduce the number to get harder shifts.

If shifts are too hard, increase the number to get softer shifts.

 

Please be aware that if shifts are too soft, it can cause a problem where a shift does not complete and it stays in the gear it was in.

A shift that is a little too hard is always better than a shift that is too soft.

 

External Speed

The best situation is to have the controller connected to an EXTERNAL SPEED SENSOR.

But as many of the old cars do not have one, the controller can work with the speed sensors internal to the gearbox.

 

"Use int speed/Rpm" (to decide if you are going to use an External speed sensor or not)

In software versions > 157 there are two separate menus. One for “Speed EXT/INT” and another for “RPM EXT/INT”

PUT the “W/S” switch in the W position

1.                   Turn on the ignition, but do NOT start engine.

2.                   Press the joystick down until “SETUP” is shown on the display.

3.                   Press the joystick right, to enter this menu

4.                   Now that you are in the SETUP menu, Press the joystick down until "Use int speed/Rpm" is displayed.

5.                   Press the joystick right, to enter this menu

6.                   Press the joystick up or down to select “0, 1 or 2” as per the list below.

0           External Speed and RPM sensors are connected

1           External RPM sensor is connected and internal speed sensor is to be used

2           No external sensors are connected and both Km/h and Engine RPM is read from internal gearbox sensors.

7.                   Press the joystick right to save

8.                   PUT the W/S switch in the S position, and repeat points 1-7.

 

An external speed sensor is absolutely preferable, as there is a limitation on the internal speed calculation, since the speed cannot be read while shifting.

 

After connecting the External speed sensor, run the car slowly (10 km/h) and see what the speed says, in “LiveData” if it is not correct it should be adjusted in the setup menu "Adjust Ext Speed %  "

 

If you want to get the most out of this controller

You should get an overhauled gearbox, if not you run the risk of getting the engine RPM jumping up during shifts, I have seen this myself, and heard  it from others but i have only seen it happen between 3rd and 4th gears. I have not seen this problem on any other shifts.

 

If you want to shift gear under 100% load I am just preparing you that you can see a jump in RPM between 3rd and 4th gears.

I have it even in my E55AMG box and live with it fine.

 

I just do not want to be responsible for your gearbox not shifting 100% correctly ;-)

 

And as much as I hate to say it, here it is…

This product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of

this system in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The

developer / seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury

caused either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The system is

intended for off road use only. Be advised that the system will produce changes in the

drivability of your vehicle.

 


Q & A

 

Q:                        Can I find any 722.6 on the yard and it will work?

A:                         As far as I have seen, any 722.6 is OK. The usual problem is that it jumps a little up in RPM between 3-4

 

Q:                        What gearbox is the best for high power project. 600 Nm or more?

A:                         W5A580 AMG box is one of the strongest.

 

Q:                        What Year is the best?

A:                         As new as possible they have only got better and better.

 

Q:                        if I find a W5A580 AMG box, is it then just mount and go?

A:                         Get it as new and low mileage as possible

 

Q:                        What is the best to do if i want the best of the best?

A:                         Have the gearbox overhauled and have everything gone through; seals in valve body and clutches and have their clearance tightened up beyond Mercedes specs. The best thing to do is to set them up to have about as tight a clearance as possible but not too tight so that they burn from drag.

 

Q:                        But can I use an old worn out box if i just want 5th gear and lockup not for racing?

A:                         Everybody’s requirements are different, but if you let’s say run it in manual mode and let off the throttle at every shift, then yes, it is possible, also in automatic mode if it is cruising not racing.

 

Q:                        My box was working perfectly in the donor car and now it is slipping between 3rd and 4th gear.

A:                         You have to remember that the transmission had torque management, meaning the donar car was limiting power during shift. Because of this, you will never see the state the gearbox really is in, as the clutches get worn out Mercedes adjusts for that by letting the shift take longer, meaning removing momentum from the engine for a longer time.

 

Q:                        Can a Normal 722.6 from a standaard E300 turbodiesel hold a momentum of 600 Nm?

A:                         Yes it can hold that but shifting under max power is a different case, from my experience the 1->2 is fine and also the 2->3 and 4->5 but we are on the limit here.

 

Q:                         The W5A580 does not fit the OM606 what do I do?

A:                         Get the Converter and bellhousing from 722.6 which was originally mounted on OM606 (Diesel Engine 24V)

 

Q:                        I have an OM606 and I dont want to mess with the bellhousing what should I look for?

A:                         Find a gearbox from a E320 CDI as new as possible, they are built to high momentum. (This information could be wrong as I have heard it does not fit, I will try to find out) (The 320CDI box DOES NOT FIT OM606 unless the bell housing is switched.)

 

What I am trying to say is that you should get the gearbox adjusted and looked after before installing if you want a system that is working perfectly.

 

If you can live width a little slipping when shifting under load, then try to install what you have but that is totally up to you.


main menu

Live Data

Here you get TPS position “Throttle Position Sensor 0 - 100%”

Engine RPM, if taken from inside the gearbox, value is only valid when driving

Km/h taken from inside gearbox or external sensor.

AG : Actual gear used

VG : Wanted gear

OK : if 0 the box controller is waiting, if 1 then it is ok to shift gear, only 1 gear shift / 2 sec

L : Gear Lever position P, R, N, D, 4, 3, 2, 1

W : W / S  Winter / Sport

Then all the valves, used for problem solving under development, but nice to watch.

T : Temperature inside the box, only valid when in gear

RPM internal part 1 / internal part 2


SETUP

When you change a value you have to press the joystick right to use it,

If you want it to be saved permanently, you have to save it to default under the menu called “Userdata/Factory” / “Default W”, otherwise your changes will be lost when the controller is turned off.

Change value by moving the joystick UP / Down.

Press the joystick right to save it.

 

 

Parameters to change in “SETUP”

 

"Converter Lockup "

                             The speed in km/h at which to lock up the torque converter in 5th gear.

 

"Converter Unlock "

                             The speed in km/h at which to unlock the torque converter in 5th gear.It must be lower than the lockup setting above.

 

"Lockup 2-4 gear  "[A2] 

0 = No,  (only lockup in 5th gear)

-1 = Like 1 but do not unlock if TPS goes below 10% (only lockup i 5 gear)

1 = Lockup also in 2 - 4 gear, if you put gear lever in position 4 you will have lockup also in 4 gear, this is useful when pulling heavy uphill.

2= always lockup in 2-5 gear also if the lever is in “D”

From Software 92 and UP

3= Like 2 but also no unlock with no throttle.

4= Like 3 but also shifts gear with locked converter, converter only unlocks if below 30 km/h This is only useful at Racetrack :-)

5 = Special only unlock if speed is below 10 Km/h and lock if in “2” and speed > 10, this is a special setting for an Electrical vehicle  (only from ver_140)

6= Lockup over a switch 12V in on (D0 kickdown 12V in), but then you can NOT use kickdown on this input, no soft lockup in this mode as it is for Racing / Drifting  (only from ver_143)

7= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does "NOT" unlock it TPS < 10%   (only from ver_170)

8= Lockup if speed bigger then 30 km/hr and locked under shift And it unlocks if TPS > 75% And it unlocks if speed is < 30 km/h Does unlock it TPS < 10%   (only from ver_170)

 

"Setup TPS "

To set up TPS to get exactly 0% when pedal is released and 100% when fully depressed, even if you only supply maybe 4 volts at full throttle. This is very simple you press the throttle to 100% and press the down key, let go of the throttle and press the UP key, thats it, TPS is calibrated, look at first page for more on this issue

 

"LOAD - TPS Boost "

if set to “2” then it means that the Throttle depressed 100% gives 50% Load, Boost gives the rest.


"Boost part load  "

If set to lets say 33

 

{ EXPLAIN

Load = TPS / 2 + Boost * 33  

 EKS “50 / 2 + 1 * 33 = 25 + 33 = 68% load

}

 

"Idle RPM         "

Only used in some cases, if components is mounted. and only if there is external RPM-signal as the calculated RPM signal will always be 0 at stationary car. it has to be set higher then 500 RPM, to get an output.

From ver 123

If set to exatly “510” something special will happen it will adjust idle to 800 when Gearoil temp is below 45 deg, and to 650 when hotter.

 

"Max Boost mbar.  "   Moved to Boost menu

Only used in some cases, if components is mounted.

 

“Volt reg +/-    "

Here you can adjust the Voltmeter if not showing correct value.

 

“Temp reg +/-    "

Here you can adjust the temperature +/- 20 deg  this is only to be used if you know it is displayed wrongly.

 

"Kickdown at %TPS "

if set to 97 then you will have kick-down if TPS > 97 if set to 101 you never get kick-down.

If you set it to 105 Kickdown would be triggered from external 12V source.

 

"max speed fail   "

There is a safety function not allowing km/h to fall down to fast, should be set to max 20

 

"Slow upshift     "

The higher the number the slower upshift, by instant release of throttle, it suppresses unwanted upshifts, when cruising slow around in the city.

 

"PWM N->D P->R    " Called Garage Shift by Mercedes

IF you have hard shift when shift in to D and R the the number must be higher, too high it will not engage.

Default is 25, but you can make the P/N -> R and P/N -> D  softer by higher number try 35, but if it does not engages you have to lower the value, the first 2 times you engage R or D this value is not used, to make shure we have engagement first time.

(only in SW 135 or higher) If it will not engage in D or R set to 15

 

"PWM 3->4 N-D/P->R     (only if SW > ver_136)

The Valve for the 3-4 shift is triggered width a PWM signal when shifting from N->D or P->R this is default 50.

This is to give a smoother engage.

But if you have any problem that it sometimes not engage, set it to “0”

 

"Adjust ext RPM"

Default is 36, if RPM show too high lower this number, only use if you use external engine RPM

In Software > 157 there is two seperet menu One for

 

“Speed EXT/INT” 

Use internal speed from gearbox, or external speed.

 

“RPM EXT/INT”

Use internal RPM from gearbox, or external RPM.

The internal RPM will always show 0 if car is stationary, and engine is running as the converter is slipping, this is normal.

 

"Use int speed/Rpm"

Use calculated Km/h from the internal parts in the gearbox if set to

0           Then Contrroller need both RPM and Speed from external source.

1           then you only need external RPM, Speed is calculated from inside the Gearbox

2           then both Km/h and Engine RPM  is calculated from inside the GearBox

5           (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth gear)

6           (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth gear) + External RPM

After change save settings and power off and on again, then changes is made

 

"Temp Line -20deg "

Adjust the line pressure at cold

 

"Temp Line 120deg "

Adjust the line pressure at Hot

 

"Temp Pres -20deg "

Adjust the shift pressure at cold

 

"Temp Pres 120deg "

Adjust the shift pressure at hot

 

"delay 3-4        "

Only use if you have problem with slip in 3-4, if you have, start with 5 and 1 up at the time, until it goes away, do not go over 15 then you have a bad box.

(only in SW 120 or higher)

If you set it to exact “-1” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below 45% that is great as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift smooth.

(only in SW > 150 or higher)

If you set it to “-1 to -9” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below -1 = 10% and -9 = 90% that is great as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift smooth.

 

"Reset Km Counter " (only in SW 128 or higher)

 Press Right          This will reset to Total Km to “0” Km

 Press Up             this will add 1000 Km at each press

 Press Down        This will subtract 100 Km, that mean you can adjust to a precision of 100 km.

 

"Lockup Soft / Hard"

1 = hard 30 = soft

 

"Use Paddle shift "

Use paddles on analog 9,

0 = disable

1 = Read the value for testing

2 = Read the value and activates the horn output

3 = Paddle shift activated

4 = Paddle shift activated, and if in main menu, and paddle is pressed it shift to manual instant, and goes back to auto if you drive very slow in high gear, (only in SW 95 or higher)

 

"EXT Speedadjust  "

Used to adjust External speed in % can be used if you change your Rim Size.

 

"INT Speedadjust  "

Used to adjust internal speed in % can be used if you change your Rim Size.

 

"Time bet shift " = time between shifts

Used to change the minimum time between shift, if set to 1000 mS then you can shift from 1 to 2 then you have to wait 1 sec to shift 2 to 3,

This time is also used in automatic mode but here is added 500 mS this means that when the time is set to 1500 mS “Standard ” it is 2000 mS in automatic.

 

"0 point boost    "  Moved to Boost menu

where the boost sensor has 0 bar on the 0 - 1024 scale if it is a 3 bar sensor it would propably hav a range from -1,5 bar to 3,5 bar 0 - 5 v  and the value here should propably be set to 300.it can be tested on the 2. live data page, where you press right on the live data, you can press right to get the second page. you should adjust until you just see a little boost when engine not running.

 

"Max boost at 5v  " Moved to Boost menu

This is the max boost your sensor can handle. A 3 bar boost sensor has 3 bar at 4,5 volt, 3,5 bar at 5 volt, this value has to be set to 350 “mBar at 5 volt”

 

“Show on Display at Startup”

in live data, you can change what to display on line 3

0 =  Normal, just main menu

1 =  Boost menu, Live Data (This is if you just use the controller as Boost Controller. and want to have live data all the time)

2 = Start up in Manual mode, (RACEMODE or if you just want Manual all the time.)

3 = Live Data

 

 

“VNT Boost/EGP”  ( Moved to Boost menu)

Boost controller is used

1, 2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4 different algorithm to adjust boost

5 is for Normal Turbo

6 is for Normal Turbo more aggressive limit

7 is for Normal Turbo even more aggressive limit

8,9,.....................

20 extreme aggressive limit.

 

“Lever setup”

0 = MB standard lever

1 = No lever, N, P and R & D can be detected but not 4-3-2-1 

2 = Special For a special gearbox having a 120 OHM output when in “R” (gives reverseligth output on AUX-3)

 

“Limit Engine Power under shift” (Not in this setup menu, but i think you would try to find it here)

Under “GeneralBoost” goto Use PWM - AUX-4, 

The following happens for different value

2,       you get instant                    200 mS          100% PWM

3,       you get instant                    300 mS          100% PWM

12      you get 100 mS delayed 200 mS             100% PWM  (1 is 100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)

25      you get 200 mS delayed 500 mS             100% PWM  (2 is 200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)

By the way Engine limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)

 

If you want to Limit Power on Mercedes Gasolin car, where before a 722.3 was

From Switch S65 on Gearbox width 1K Ohm resistor Pin 1 and Pin 2 width a relay


Manual Shift

Use the joystick up/down to change gear, 100% manual / or paddle shifters. / or switches connected to a rally type shifter

It is still only possible to change gear one time every 2 sec (Adjustable in setup menu.)

It is only possible to downshift the same as a kickdown would, Safety that you not turn over the engine.

 

Shift Speeds different gears

Here you can see all UP / DOWN shift at actual TPS,

You can test it by stopping the engine, go to this screen, and press the throttle, to see when it would change at that TPS.

 

Shift Speeds

Here you can change the value of all shifts

0%                       throttle 1-2 called Min                  1-2,  Upshift

100%                  throttle 1-2 called max                 1-2   Upshift

0%                       throttle 1-2 called Min                  2-1   Downshift

100%                  throttle 1-2 called max                 2-1   Downshift

 

 

Kickdown ok 2>>1

If the Speed is lower then this value it is ok to shift down to 1 gear at kickdown

 

RPM Kickdown 1-2

At this RPM it will make upshift from 1>>2

 

Kickdown ok RPM

Downshift width Kickdown will only happen if RPM is below this value

 

Shift Firmness

LineLowLoad   1>>2                    Default value    = 20                     (Higher value = Softer shift at low load)

PresLowLoad    1>>2                    Default value    = 30                     (Higher value = Softer shift at low load)

LineHiLoad       1>>2                    Default value    = -6                      (Higher value = Softer shift at High load)

PresHiLoad        1>>2                    Default value    = 12                     (Higher value = Softer shift at High load)

 

LineLowLoad   2>>1                    Default value    = 20

PresLowLoad    2>>1                    Default value    = 30

LineHiLoad       2>>1                    Default value    = -6

PresHiLoad        2>>1                    Default value    = 12

 

If you find the shift from 1>>2 to hard at very low load.

Then  try this

LineLowLoad   1>>2                    LineLowLoad   = 22

PresLowLoad    1>>2                    PresLowLoad    = 32

Remember to press the >> key to save the values.

And before shutting the car down remember to save it permanently under “Userdata/Factory (” version 2 saves it automatacally.)

 

And do the same for high load, if you find the shift to hard or too soft.

When this is done and you find that the shift are too soft or too hard at lets say 50% load, you need to change those

When you have set up nice soft shift and good hard shift. then you can fine tune with number below

"Load at 25% load"   if you have to soft or too hard shift at 25% load if to hard lower the number

"Load at 50% load"   same but at 50%

"Load at 75% load"   same but at 75%


The whole new Shift Firmness MENU  (from version 117) Need to be testet some more

In this menu you can adjust all shiftfirmness parameters manuelly

 

In the gereral Firmness

 

You can adjust correction for temperature, and adjust general Linepressure

From ver 139 “LineAdjust” All changed to “Firmness All L=H”   L=H means Lower number = harder shift

This now adjust both LinePressure and ShiftPresssure,  Lower number = harder shift,  higher number = softer shifts.

If you want to adjust the hardness for different load, go in here.

 

If you want the shift to bee a bit harder at 30% load then just adjust, higher number is harder shift, but only at 30% load

 

 

before you leave this menu it is possible to save changes, it automatically saves in “W” or “S” depending on the switch position.

 

 

The last menu in Shift Firmness is the Min / Max at any gear, Just leave it, its fine as it is :-)

 


Rate Last Shift MENU  (from version 117)

This is the Rate Shift Menu

When the gearbox have shifted you see the last shift, and at what load, the shift was done.

On this oicture below it has shiftet from 2->1 at load 1% = no load

Here i pressed the joystick down, to tell the controller to make it a little more smooth next time.

And the controller reply width “Notet to hard” and it will make it more smooth next time.

There is 10 different load points, on every shift. and they are different on up and down also.


Gear Lever Connection 10 PIN MB plug to 14 Controller plug

24 Pin Gearbox Plug


Pinout from Controller

Use 8 Amp fuse on the 12 Volt


External Parts needed to have a complete working system

Mercedes TPS Sensor from W210 year 1997 - 2002

If you get the TPS sensor from a W210 car it has a plug with 6 wires.

You need the plug and 10 cm of cable.

If you take the plug out you can read on the plug pin 1,2,3,4,5,6

the pin 1 needs to be connected to 5V,

the pin 6 needs to be connected to 0V,

the pin 5 needs to be connected to TPS input,

The last 3 wires from the Sensor is not connected.

MB TPS Sensor plug                                                           Mountet on an OM606 in a G Class, Mechanically pump

TPS Sensor MB

When TPS Sensor is mounted, you go into “setup Parameters” then “Setup Tps”

At 0% TPS NO Throttle press the Up key on joystick for 1 sec         

  Now press the Throttle full to 100% press DOWN key for 1 sec

 

MERCEDES W210 E300 Turbo Diesel Boost Sensor If you need max 1,65 bar = 25 PSI

Then the originally MB boost sensor from a W210 E300 Turbodiesel can be used as it has a standard 0-5 volt output

I have only tested this exact type below

“Boost  Control” -> “General Boost” -> "0 point boost"      set it to 305 if this Mercedes sensor is used

“Boost  Control” -> “General Boost” -> "Max boost at 5v"  set it to 170 if this Mercedes sensor is used


Gear Lever and plug (it has to be the one with a “1” see red square on picture)

And the plug is a 10 pin, and have 8 wire out, thats the Gear Lever we need

If you are in the Marked for a GearLever, be aware that the GB (RHD), ones is also mirrord, compared to the LHD ones, an other thing is that the one from W210 is longer and higher, then the W202, and R129 it is the short that fits the W124 and older G class,

 

W202 / R129 fits W124               W210 model Longer and higher then the one on the Left, Do NOT fit W124

 

Part number 2022670637

10 Pin plug to on the Wiring harness

 

 

Tiptronic Yes and No

I can NOT talk to the Tiptronic shifter, if you want to use that, it is fine but you then have no switch for W/S but that can be any switch.

And I can only tell from the gearbox if you are in P/N od RD but that is fine but the function width hold in 4, 3 2, 1, and so on are not working.

If you want to use +/- You have to add some micro switch to switch to ground when you press + or -

and then connect to PADDLE input, thats it.

 

Reverse Ligth (Those 2 pin it shorted when i R for Reverse Ligth)


Boost Controller,  Parts to use

If you have a Vacuum actuated turbo where you want to use the built in boost Controller you should have one of these.

This is a vacuum valve meaning if it has 100% PWM, there are max vacuum = Wastegate closed, if 0% PWM no vacuum = Wastegate open.

The part is used in Many Mercedes cars from 1997 to 2000 both for boost control and EGR,

 

It is connected to the two pins marked in red, it does not matter how they are connected as it is a solonoid,

 

Here we see the Boost screen We have set the Boost to 0,6 bar and the boost is 0,63 thats why you see the PWM out is less then 100% = WasteGate is opening

 


update of firmware Install Driver

(Wery importent connect PC to controller when stationary, as the controller restart when connected)

You need to connect the box to you PC,

When connectet go to Device Manager, here the Arduino Mega 2560 (and Port number) should show up.

But only if it can find the rigth driver.

If it cant find the rigth driver, you can download this package

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing

 it is quite big, but you can’t just download the driver alone.

You will find a directory called “Drivers”


Update Firmware

Program to upload new Firmware

Download this software

http://russemotto.com/xloader/XLoader.zip

It will look like this

Hex file  send to you, is choosen.

Device Choose  (Mega(ATMEGA2560)

Comport (To find you comport look in Device Manager  )

Press Upload and wait until it says uploaded it takes around  60 second


Starter Lockout (from version 113)

“Boost Control” -> “General Boost” -> “USE PWM - AUX-2”

If set to “2” then the AUX-2 works as a Starter Lockout, it pulls the output to ground when in P or N

This can drive a relay, witch has 12 Volt on the other side of the coil. (from version 113)

I know it does not make sence this function is hidden in the Boost menu, but as we steal a AUX output from there, thats why.

The starter lockout will work no matter if you don't have the Mercedes Gear Lever og you running without a Gear Lever.

You can not use AUX-2 to other things at the same time.


Boost Controller part of the 722.6 controller.

The Boost controller can be used in different ways.

If you want to use Boost Controller

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”

The value means the following

0 Boost Controller in PWM mode allow, you to specify PWM depending on boost, see later in this document)

1, 2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4 different algorithm to adjust boost

5 is for Normal Turbo

6 is for Normal Turbo more aggressive limit

7 is for Normal Turbo even more aggressive limit

8,9,.....................

20 extreme aggressive limit

At the bottom we have the Boost Control menu

In there is a General Boost, and all the many data points you can change

Lets say you have an normal Turbo, just want to open wastegate when boost hits 1 bar

Goto “Boost Control” -> “TPS -> Boost” 

Press -> on the joystick.

Here below you have 11 data points for any throttle position, 0.10.20.30....100%

Right key gives you next point, Left gives you previous.

Up key higher value, Down lower value

 

Check out this YouTybe Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULEGavGRavs

 

To see what you have programmed you watch the live data in the live data menu.

Here you see that TPS is 41% and the Limit is set to be max 0.6 bar boost = 9 PSI. at that throttle position. But as you see boost are a little higher, that's why the PWM out is not 100% it has started to open the Wastegate on the turbo.

If you want More Control over what happens, you can specify exactly what PWM signal is sent to the Boost valve.

 

PWM is Puls width Modulation. if it is 10% that means that yeo have 10% power to the solonoid valve, and wastegate is almost fully open

 

If PWM is set to 100% the solonoid will make full vacumm and wastegate will close

 

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”  set value to “0”

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “Use PWM-1 Boost” set to “1”

Now the menu has Changed and ready to do PWM.

 

Goto “Boost Control” -> “EGP-Boost           -> % PWM” set what you want here             

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Boost                   -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “RPM                     -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Speed                  -> % PWM” set what you want here  

 

The lovest PWM value will be taken from the above and send to Valve

On Picture below you see that the boost limits PWM to  30 %

 


Holset CAN-BUS Control fromSW ver_144

And HW ver 4 the new Smaller SMD board

 

The Holset HE351VE is a popular VNT turbo, that is why i now support to run this turbo over the CANBUS output.

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” ->  “CANBUS” set it to “HOLSET 1” or “HOLSET 2” if set to HOLSET 2 it moves the vanes the other direction.

 

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” ->  “VNT Boost/EGP” set it to “0”

Now Restart the controller 2 times.

The Controller now control the Turbo depending on the settings in

Goto “Boost Control” -> “EGP-Boost           -> % PWM” set what you want here             

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Boost                   -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “RPM                     -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Speed                  -> % PWM” set what you want here 

%PWM is % position of the vnt vanes in this mode.

 

Connect the Holset, there is 4 wire coming out the Holset controller

RED / Green = 12V

Green / yellow = 0V GND

Yellow = CAN H

Green = CAN L

 

Picture of my test setup


Extra AUX output for other stuff

There are 3 more PWM AUX output,

 

AUX-2

“General Boost” -> “USE AUX-2”

If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “1” Then it works this way

The AUX-2 PWM out. takes input from the TPS, EGP, RPM and gives out the lowest of the 3.

 

From ver 159 (Start Fan for Gear oil Cooler)

If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” Then it works this way

The AUX-2 PWM out. Takes input from Gear oil temp and Pulse AUX-2 to ground at higher then 90° and releases at 85°

 

if “USE AUX-2” is set to “2” then it is used as starter lockout. (search for starter lockout)

 

If “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” then the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the Gearlever, then it can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10 km/h  (It gives a ground signla, you have to supply 12V to the other side of solenoid)

 

AUX-3 

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “1”

This takes in Analog input 1 in and Boost, RPM, and gives out the lowest PWM of the 3 out

.

This output is also used for reversing Ligth if Lever is set to “2” and can then not be used for AUX-3

 

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “3” Then

the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the Gearlever, then it can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10 km/h  (It gives a ground signla, you have to supply 12V to the other side of solonoid)

 

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “4” Then it works this way

The AUX-3 PWM out. takes input from Gear oil temp and pulse AUX-3 to ground at higher than 90° and releases at 85°

 

AUX-4,

Same as previous just another analog input.  (if set to 1 it is used depending on A-2,Boost,RPM)

This output can also be used to get a signal out to limit power of engine.

Under “General Boost” go to “Use PWM - AUX-4”, 

The following happens for different value

1,                   it is used depending on A-2,Boost,RPM as AUX, not Pover limit function.

2,                   you get instant               200 mS        100% PWM

3,                   you get instant               300 mS        100% PWM

12                 you get 100 mS delayed 200 mS     100% PWM  (1 is 100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)

25                 you get 200 mS delayed 500 mS     100% PWM  (2 is 200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)

By the way Engine limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)

 

AUX-4 Explanation

Analog in 0-5 volt out = PWM signal 50% means valve on half the time.

0

0,5

1

1,5

2

2,5

3

3,5

4

4,5

5

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

90

75

30

Boost in PWM out

0

0,15

0.3

0,45

0,6

0,75

0,9

1,05

1,2

1,35

100

100

100

100

100

100

60

30

0

0

RPM in PWM out

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

4500

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

80

60

40

If we have

A-2 = 4,5 Volt <=> 75%,

Boost = 0,9 bar <=> 60%,  This is the lowes and 60% PWM is sent to the Valve.

RPM = 3500 <=> 80%, 

Just a little more work then 2 X VNT in Compound


This is the Label on the V3 Controller


Failure Search

**Start Fail RPM-1** or **Start Fail RPM-2**

There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all shifts if speed is not right,

This can be triggered if put ignition on and start the car instant, Specially if you also gives it a little gas

If you put ignition on and start after 2 sec you will never see it.

 

**N at speed**

There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all shifts if put in N at speed

Please drive below 5 km/h before put in N

 


GearOil

It is very important that the gear Oil level is correct in the 722.6  but if you don't have a dipstick here is how you can make you own. as the 722.6 newer has a dipstick from new.

Mercedes Part number : 140589152100

http://autoimport.dk/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953

http://mbspecialist.com/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953&search-button.x=0&search-button.y=0

Here is a link to discussion of Oil Level

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1565510-w210-homemade-dipstick-722-6-transmission-2.html


SpeedoMeter

Great Link to keep speedo working on old cars from here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/308791-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-15.html

FROM the link

But I figured out how to move the internal VR trigger wheel to the driveshaft and keep the tailcone with the manual speedo on the 722.4. Here's a diagram of the strategy. (The full thread on this topic, including images of the proof-of-concept test is here - Mechanical to Electronic Speedometer Conversion )

 

 

 


Different information

Momentum for the 722.6 (W5A580)- 578lb/ft = 800 Nm

i think the strongest automatic 722.6 is the 722.649 this is connected

to the 65 amg and handle 1000nm

722.608 300 td diesel

722.623 some v8 petrols

722.649 e65 amg,s

Gear ratios

Mercedes-Benz Transmissions

Gear

1

2

3

4

5

R1

R2

5G-TRONIC (W5A330/Small NAG)[2]

3.932

2.408

1.486

1.00

0.83

-3.10

-1.90

5G-TRONIC (W5A580/Large NAG)[3]

3.59

2.19

1.41

1.00

0.83

-3.16

-1.93

Where to find the gearbox

·         1996–1999 Mercedes-Benz W140 

·         2000-2005 Mercedes-Benz W220

·         2006–Present Mercedes-Benz W221 (V12 Models only)

·         1997-2002 Mercedes-Benz W210

·         2002-2004 Mercedes-Benz W211

·         1997-2000 Mercedes-Benz W202

·         2000-2004 Mercedes-Benz W203

·         1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz W163

·         1997-2004 Mercedes-Benz W168

·         2004–Present Mercedes-Benz W169

·         2005–Present Mercedes-Benz B-Class

·         1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz R170

·         1990-2001 Mercedes-Benz R129

·         2001–Present Mercedes-Benz R230 (V12 Model and Earlier, up to 2005)

·         1998-2002 Mercedes-Benz W208

·         2003-2005 Mercedes-Benz W209

·         2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz C215 (V12 Models only)

·         2007–Present Mercedes-Benz C216 (V12 Models only)

·         1996–Present Mercedes-Benz W463 (AMG Models only)

·         2005-2009 Mercedes-Benz SLR

·         2002–Present Maybach 57 and 62

·         1998-2002 Jaguar X308 (Supercharged models only)

·         1998-2002 Jaguar XK (X100) (Supercharged models only)

·         2004–Present Ssangyong Rexton

·         2006–Present Ssangyong Kyron

·         2005–Present Ssangyong Rodius

·         2005-2008 Dodge Magnum- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent

·         2005–Present Chrysler 300- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent All pentastar V6 applications

·         2006–Present Dodge Charger- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent,All pentastar V6 applications

·         2008–Present Dodge Challenger- All HEMI applications, All pentastar V6 applications

·         2007-2011 Dodge Nitro- 4.0L V6 Applications

·         2006-2010 Jeep Commander- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L CRD V6 applications

·         2005–Present Jeep Grand Cherokee- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L Diesel Applications, SRT8 Applications, all pentastar V6 applications

·         2011–Present Dodge Durango, 3.6L V6

·         2011–Present Jeep Wrangler- 2.8L Diesel

·         2012–Present Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6

As much as I hate to say it, here it is…

This product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of

this system in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The

developer / seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury

caused either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The system is

intended for off road use only.


PC Program (This is Beta, not 100% tested)

DO NOT CONNECT AND DISCONNECT USB CABLE WHILE Driving

Get the EXE file direct, and run

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQMnpsRm96d09HMGM/view?usp=sharing

Driver for controller

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing


Conversion drawing W124 

 

Engine from OM603 to OM606

Gearbox from 722.3 to 722.6

The Propellershaft do not need to be changed or modified, just make sure the Flange fit.

If you have mecanically Tacho you can find a electronic one from W124 (420 or 500) make sure they are eletronic.

The Crossbare from any W210 can be used but 2 holes has to be drilled.


Overload protection on W124 gasoline cars,  (NOT NEEDED BUT POSSIBLE)

this controller can also send a signal to the Engine controller

But i have not yet tried it, all info i have found is below here

Please if anyone know how the S65 switch is working, please tell me, what i think is that it is just short the 2 wires but not sure. ?

If it works as i think the S65 simply short 2 wires. ? if it is like that then mount a relay to short, and drive the relay, width the output from controller.

 

 


 [A1] Is it correct to say that if you don’t have the Mercedes gear lever, you can perform steps 1-8 and  ignore step 9?

 [A2]This section is very confusing to me. Can you explain the default behaviour? Does converter normally lockup if the lever is in positions 1,2,3,4?

Do the speed settings above for lock and unlock only apply to 5th gear?

It seems to me that if you use setting 1 and you are in manual mode and you drive until you are in 4th gear, then take your foot off the throttle, stop and leave the gearbox in 4th, then the converter will still be locked when you stop because TPS<10%. Is that correct?

Are these settings affected by the gear lever position or do they behave the same in auto, manual or gear lever selected gears?